A street in the Sethi House complex of Peshawar's walled city

Cities · Khyber Pakhtunkhwa

Peshawar: The Frontier City of Storytellers

One of South Asia's oldest living cities: capital of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, home of Gandharan treasures, Mughal mosques, merchant havelis and the legendary chapli kebab.

  • Capital of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa
  • Ancient Purushapura of Gandhara
  • Best season: October to March
Explore PeshawarView on map

Mohallah Sethian, Walled City, Peshawar

Peshawar at a Glance

1.91 millionUrban populationUrban Peshawar District, 2023 Census
4.76 millionPeshawar District2023 Census; district area 1,518 km²
1630Mahabat Khan Mosque builtBritannica
27 kmBRT main corridorChamkani–Hayatabad, opened August 2020 (Dawn)

About Peshawar

Peshawar is the capital of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa and the great city of Pakistan's north-west. It lies at the western edge of the fertile Vale of Peshawar, just west of the Bara River, a tributary of the Kabul River, and close to the eastern mouth of the Khyber Pass. For most of recorded history it has been the meeting point of South Asia and Central Asia: the place where caravans unloaded, armies paused and ideas changed hands.

In antiquity the city was known as Purushapura. The Kushan emperor Kanishka made it his capital in the 1st century CE, and the Shahji-ki-Dheri mounds east of the city cover the remains of what Britannica describes as the largest Buddhist stupa in the subcontinent. The modern name, often explained as 'frontier town', is credited to the Mughal emperor Akbar. Archaeological work at Gor Khuttree in the old city has shown occupation reaching back at least to the 3rd century BCE.

The 2023 Census recorded 1,905,975 people in urban Peshawar (the Municipal Corporation, 1,837,741, plus the Cantonment) and 4,758,762 in Peshawar District, which covers 1,518 km². The city is overwhelmingly Pashtun, with a long-established Hindko-speaking community in the old city, and Urdu is widely understood.

For visitors, Peshawar is a city of contrasts: the dense, aromatic lanes of the walled city with its bazaars and merchant havelis; the green, colonial-era Cantonment; the university quarter; and newer suburbs to the west. It is a place for unhurried exploring, generous hospitality and some of the best meat dishes in Pakistan.

Few cities wear their age as lightly as Peshawar: two thousand years of history, and still the best place in the country to argue over tea.
A street in Peshawar's old city
Daily life in Peshawar's walled city, where many lanes follow routes centuries old.

Top Attractions in Peshawar

Mughal mosques, Sikh-era forts, Gandharan sculpture and the bazaar of storytellers.

The white facade and minarets of Mahabat Khan Mosque, PeshawarMahabat Khan MosqueWalled CityA gleaming white Mughal mosque of 1630, named after the Mughal governor Mahabat Khan, with a wide courtyard, ablution pool and richly painted prayer hall rising above the surrounding bazaar.Mughal architecture
Shops and shoppers in Qissa Khwani Bazaar, PeshawarQissa Khwani BazaarWalled CityThe 'Street of Storytellers', where caravan traders once swapped tales. Today it is lined with tea houses, dry-fruit sellers and shops selling carpets, caps and chappals.BazaarHeritage
The carved wooden courtyard of Sethi House, PeshawarSethi HouseMohallah SethianPart of a cluster of 19th- and early-20th-century havelis built by the Sethi merchant family, famous for carved wooden doors, painted ceilings, mirror-work and Central Asian-influenced design. One house is open to visitors.HaveliMuseum
The main entrance to the Gor Khuttree heritage complexGor KhuttreeWalled CityA hilltop complex that Britannica describes as once a Buddhist monastery and later a Hindu temple; it later served as a Mughal caravanserai and as the residence of the city's Sikh-era governor. Excavations here reveal layers of Peshawar's long past.ArchaeologyMulti-faith heritage
The Victoria Memorial Hall building of the Peshawar MuseumPeshawar MuseumSaddar RoadHoused in the colonial-era Victoria Memorial Hall, the museum holds one of the world's great collections of Gandharan Buddhist sculpture: Buddha images, Bodhisattvas, relic caskets and narrative friezes.MuseumGandhara
The high walls of Bala Hisar Fort, PeshawarBala Hisar FortEdge of the Walled CityThe massive fort overlooking the city, rebuilt by the Sikhs on the ruins of the Durrani royal residence. It remains in military use, so access is limited; its walls are best admired from outside.Fort
The red-brick main building of Islamia College, PeshawarIslamia CollegeUniversity RoadPeshawar's best-known historic college, with a red-brick main building combining Mughal and colonial styles. Its image has appeared on Pakistani banknotes.ArchitectureEducation
The brick Cunningham Clock Tower in Peshawar's old cityCunningham Clock TowerGhanta Ghar, Walled CityThe brick clock tower known locally as Ghanta Ghar marks the heart of the old city, near the jewellery lanes of Andar Shehr and the approach to Mohallah Sethian.Colonial landmark

Neighbourhoods and Areas

The walled city, the Cantonment and the suburbs that stretch towards the Khyber hills.

Carved wooden balconies above shops in Peshawar's Qissa Khwani BazaarWalled CityOnce enclosed by walls and gates, the old city holds Qissa Khwani, Mahabat Khan Mosque, Gor Khuttree and Mohallah Sethian. Explore on foot with a local guide for the best experience.
Andar Shehr and Chowk YadgarAndar Shehr is the traditional jewellery bazaar; nearby Chowk Yadgar has long been the city's public square and gathering place.
Cantonment and SaddarLaid out in the British period, with wider roads, gardens, churches, Peshawar Museum and Saddar's shops and restaurants.
Panoramic view of the University of Peshawar campusUniversity TownA leafy academic and residential district around the University of Peshawar (founded 1950) and Islamia College, with cafés, bookshops and guesthouses.
HayatabadA large planned township on the western edge of the city, at one end of the BRT corridor, with modern markets, parks and housing.
Namak MandiLiterally the 'salt market', this old-city quarter is now Peshawar's most famous destination for lamb karahi, tikka and roasted meats.

Explore Peshawar by Category

About PeshawarPeshawar is the capital of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa and the…Top Attractions in PeshawarMughal mosques, Sikh-era forts, Gandharan sculpture and the bazaar…Neighbourhoods and AreasThe walled city, the Cantonment and the suburbs that…Food and BazaarsPeshawar's cooking is meat-forward, lightly spiced and built around…History of PeshawarGateway, garrison and caravan city for more than two…Culture and TraditionsPeshawar's culture is shaped by Pashtunwali, the Pashtun code…

Food and Bazaars

Peshawar's cooking is meat-forward, lightly spiced and built around fire and fresh bread.

Chapli kebabs frying in a large panChapli KebabFlat, crisp-edged minced-meat patties with coriander, pomegranate seeds and chilli, shallow-fried in large pans. Peshawar's most famous export.Signature dish
Namak Mandi Karahi and TikkaLamb cooked simply with tomatoes, salt and green chillies, or skewered as fat-basted tikka, served with hot naan and best shared.Grill
Kabuli PulaoRice cooked with meat stock, carrots and raisins, reflecting the city's ties with Afghanistan and Central Asia.Rice
QehwaGreen tea brewed with cardamom, poured in small cups and offered constantly, in shops, homes and Qissa Khwani's tea houses.Tea
Dry Fruit and SpicesAlmonds, walnuts, raisins, dried apricots and pine nuts are sold by weight in the old city's bazaars; prices vary by season and grade.Bazaar
Glazed pottery made in PeshawarCraftsBritannica lists Peshawar's traditional crafts as chappals, glazed pottery, copperware, embroidery, carpets, turbans and carved woodwork, look for them around Qissa Khwani.Handicrafts

History of Peshawar

Gateway, garrison and caravan city for more than two millennia.

  1. By 3rd century BCE

    An ancient settlement

    Excavations at Gor Khuttree confirm the city's foundation dates back at least to this period, making Peshawar one of the oldest living cities in South Asia.

  2. 2nd century BCE

    Greco-Bactrian rule

    The Vale of Peshawar was annexed by the Greco-Bactrian king Eucratides.

  3. 1st century CE

    Kushan capital

    Kanishka made Purushapura the capital of the Kushan empire; Buddhism and Gandharan art flourished, and a colossal stupa rose at Shahji-ki-Dheri.

  4. 988 CE

    Muslim conquest

    Muslim forces captured the city. By the 16th century it was held by Afghans nominally dependent on the Mughals.

  5. 1630

    Mahabat Khan Mosque

    The great Mughal mosque was completed in the heart of the city, a sign of Peshawar's importance as a provincial centre.

  6. 1834

    Sikh authority

    Sikh rule was firmly established; Bala Hisar was rebuilt as a Sikh fort.

  7. 1849–1947

    British period

    Peshawar became a frontier garrison and municipality (1867). The Khyber Pass railway from Peshawar opened in 1925.

  8. 1947 onward

    Part of Pakistan

    Peshawar became capital of the province now called Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. The University of Peshawar was founded in 1950 and the BRT opened in 2020.

Culture and Traditions

Peshawar's culture is shaped by Pashtunwali, the Pashtun code that prizes hospitality (melmastia), honour and loyalty. Guests are welcomed with qehwa and food, and a visitor who shows genuine curiosity will often find themselves invited to sit and talk. The old city also has a deep-rooted Hindko-speaking community whose traditions of trade, poetry and cuisine are woven into the bazaars.

The city has long been a centre of Pashto music and poetry. The rabab, a short-necked lute, is the defining instrument, and the verses of poets such as Rahman Baba and Khushal Khan Khattak are widely quoted. Traditional attan dances appear at weddings and celebrations across the province.

Religious life follows the Islamic calendar: Ramadan evenings are lively in the food streets, and the days before Eid see the bazaars at their busiest. Peshawar is also home to small but historic Sikh, Hindu and Christian communities, whose temples, gurdwaras and churches stand in and around the old city. Cricket is followed passionately, and the city's PSL franchise, Peshawar Zalmi, has a devoted following.

Gandharan Buddhist sculptures in the main hall of the Peshawar Museum
Gandharan sculpture in the Peshawar Museum.

Getting Around

A single east–west BRT corridor makes Peshawar easier to navigate than its size suggests.

Airport

Bacha Khan International Airport

Peshawar's airport sits close to the Cantonment, with domestic flights and international services, mainly to the Gulf. Confirm schedules with airlines.

BRT (Zu Peshawar)

Chamkani to Hayatabad

The Bus Rapid Transit was inaugurated in August 2020 on a 27 km corridor from Chamkani to Hayatabad, plus feeder routes. Dawn reported about 60 km of feeder routes at launch.

Rail

Peshawar Cantonment station

Peshawar is a terminus of Pakistan Railways' main line, with trains towards Rawalpindi, Lahore and Karachi. Check Pakistan Railways for current timetables.

Road

M-1 and GT Road

The M-1 motorway links Peshawar with Islamabad and Rawalpindi; the historic Grand Trunk Road runs east through Nowshera and Attock.

Ride-hailing and rickshaws

Easy for short hops

App-based taxis operate in the city, and auto-rickshaws are everywhere. Agree rickshaw fares before setting off.

On foot

The only way to see the old city

The walled city's lanes are too narrow for comfortable driving. Walk, and consider hiring a licensed local guide.

Plan Your Visit

Best Time to Visit

October to March

Autumn and winter days are mild and sunny. Summers are very hot, so plan sightseeing for early mornings and evenings.

Where to Stay

Cantonment, University Town, Hayatabad

The Cantonment is central and close to the museum and airport; University Town and Hayatabad are calmer residential options along the BRT.

Etiquette

Conservative dress

Peshawar is socially conservative. Dress modestly, women may wish to carry a scarf, remove shoes at mosques, and always ask before photographing people, especially women.

Travel Advisories

Check before you go

Check your government's current travel advice and follow local authority guidance. Visiting the Khyber Pass and other border areas may require permission or be restricted for foreigners.

Local Guides

Recommended for the old city

A knowledgeable local guide helps with access to havelis, mosques and workshops, and makes the bazaars easier to read.

Language

Pashto, Hindko, Urdu

Pashto is the main language, Hindko is spoken in the old city, and Urdu is widely understood. A few words of Pashto earn warm smiles.

Read more

Day Trips from Peshawar

Gandharan monasteries, green valleys and the historic road to the Khyber.

The stone ruins of the Takht-i-Bahi Buddhist monastery on its ridgeTakht-i-BahiNear MardanA remarkably complete Buddhist monastic complex on a rocky ridge, with stupa courts, meditation cells and assembly halls.UNESCO World HeritageGandharaThe Dharmarajika stupa and monastery ruins at TaxilaTaxilaTowards RawalpindiAncient city sites, stupas and a superb museum, a natural pairing with Peshawar Museum's Gandharan collection.UNESCO World HeritageThe Swat River flowing through Kalam in the Swat ValleySwat ValleyNorth of PeshawarGreen valleys, rivers and Buddhist sites; better as an overnight trip than a day out.MountainsBuddhist heritage
Khyber PassWest of PeshawarThe legendary route to Afghanistan, running about 53 km from near Jamrud to Torkham. Access for visitors depends on current security arrangements; check advisories and permit rules first.HistoryPermit may be required
Rawalpindi seen from aboveRawalpindi and IslamabadVia the M-1 motorwayThe twin cities are an easy motorway journey east, combining bazaars, museums and the Margalla Hills.Cities
The courtyard of Mahabat Khan Mosque, Peshawar

Your journey awaits

Discover the Spirit of Peshawar

Sip qehwa in Qissa Khwani, trace Gandhara in the museum and taste chapli kebab where it was perfected.

Explore Khyber Pakhtunkhwa

Peshawar Through Time

Every dated moment our guides record about Peshawar, from its own history and from national events that touched it. Each entry links to its source page.

  1. c. 6th century BCE–5th century CE

    Gandhara

    The Peshawar valley and Swat form the heart of Gandhara, later a centre of Buddhist learning and art under the Kushans.

    From: Khyber Pakhtunkhwa

  2. 1st millennium BCE – 1st millennium CE

    Gandhara

    Taxila and the Peshawar valley became centres of Buddhist learning and Gandharan art, now recognised by UNESCO at Taxila and Takht-i-Bahi.

    From: Explore Pakistan

  3. 1st–3rd century CE

    The Kushans

    Kushan emperors, notably Kanishka, rule from Purushapura (Peshawar); Gandharan Buddhist art reaches its peak at sites such as Takht-i-Bahi.

    From: Timeline of Pakistan: From Mehrgarh to Today

  4. 1st–3rd century CE

    The Kushan golden age

    Kushan emperors, notably Kanishka, rule from Purushapura (Peshawar). Monasteries multiply and Gandharan sculpture reaches its peak.

    From: Gandhara

  5. 1st–5th century CE

    Kushan Gandhara

    Ruling from Peshawar, the Kushans preside over a golden age of Buddhist monasteries and Greco-Buddhist art, until Hephthalite invasions in the 5th century.

    From: History of Pakistan

  6. 1st–7th century CE

    Gandhara

    Buddhist monasteries, stupas and cities flourish around Peshawar, Swat and Taxila; Takht-i-Bahi is the best-preserved monastery complex.

    From: Architecture of Pakistan

  7. c. 1000 CE

    Ghaznavid campaigns

    Mahmud of Ghazni defeats the Hindu Shahi rulers near Peshawar, opening the region to the Ghaznavids.

    From: Khyber Pakhtunkhwa

  8. 17th century

    Pashto's golden age

    Khushal Khan Khattak and Rahman Baba write poetry that still defines Pashto literature, while Mughal governors build in Peshawar.

    From: Khyber Pakhtunkhwa

  9. 18th century

    Durrani era

    Nowshera develops under the Afghan Durrani Empire on the road between Peshawar and the Indus.

    From: Nowshera

  10. 19th century

    A British hill station

    Nathia Gali becomes the summer headquarters of the Chief Commissioner of Peshawar division.

    From: Nathia Gali

  11. 1818–1839

    The Sikh Empire expands

    Multan falls in 1818, Kashmir in 1819 and Peshawar comes under direct Sikh rule in 1834. Ranjit Singh dies in Lahore in 1839.

    From: Timeline of Pakistan: From Mehrgarh to Today

  12. 1823–1834

    Towards the Khyber

    Sikh armies defeat Afghan and Pashtun forces at Nowshera (1823); Peshawar is brought under direct Sikh rule in 1834.

    From: The Sikh Empire

Do you remember Peshawar as it used to be? Share a memory or an old photo, our editors review every story before it appears.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the population of Peshawar?

The 2023 Census recorded 1,905,975 people in urban Peshawar and 4,758,762 in Peshawar District as a whole. The Peshawar Municipal Corporation alone counted 1,837,741.

Why is Peshawar called the city of storytellers?

Its most famous bazaar, Qissa Khwani, means 'Street of Storytellers', a reminder of the caravan traders who once gathered here to share news and tales.

What is Peshawar famous for?

Its ancient history as Purushapura, Gandharan Buddhist art in the Peshawar Museum, the Mughal-era Mahabat Khan Mosque, the Sethi havelis, Pashtun hospitality and dishes such as chapli kebab and Namak Mandi karahi.

Is there public transport in Peshawar?

Yes. The BRT (Zu Peshawar) runs along a 27 km corridor between Chamkani and Hayatabad, with feeder routes. Rickshaws and app-based taxis are also widely used.

Can visitors go to the Khyber Pass from Peshawar?

Access depends on the current security situation and permit rules, which change. Check your government's travel advice and local authority guidance before planning a visit.

When is the best time to visit Peshawar?

October to March, when the weather is mild. Summer temperatures are very high.

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How we know this

  • Type Place guide
  • Sources 6 (5 official/academic)
  • Reviewed October 2026
  • Disputed points None
6 sources
  1. Population Census 2023 – Table 1: Khyber Pakhtunkhwa districts, Pakistan Bureau of Statistics
  2. Population Census 2023 – Table 2: Urban localities by population size, Pakistan Bureau of Statistics
  3. Peshawar, Encyclopaedia Britannica
  4. Khyber Pass, Encyclopaedia Britannica
  5. PM inaugurates much-awaited Peshawar BRT project, Dawn
  6. UNESCO World Heritage List: Taxila, UNESCO World Heritage Centre
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